The Ghats of Kolkata -A Virtual Tour

River Hooghly, or the “River of Hooghly” as it was called by the Portuguese, is a distributary of the Ganga in Calcutta and is one of the principal arteries that supports the life of this city. It’s importance, though reduced now was as a means of transportation as well as for conducting Hindu rituals of birth life death. If it could narrate its history, it would provide a rich account of travelers from all over the world who have sailed over it to visit, trade and rule. It may be mentioned that here, unlike in the West, where the river front served a recreational purpose, no city had promenades on the river till the Europeans built them in Calcutta, Chandannagar, Serampore etc. Here, the Ghats were the permanent embankments to mark the points where man went down to “meet” the river as well as points of embarkation/ disembarkation.

Early morning is the time when the ghats are Rabindra at their active best with bathers, wrestlers, masseurs, sadhus, among others are involved in vigorous activity. The journey of “discovery” of the Ghats provides a fascinating history of the lives of the me people who built them and the way they were and are used. The names are usually based on the products/people handled or the philanthropists who built them. Many of the ghats were shifted from their original location because of gradual shift of the River Hooghly towards the west and the construction of the Strand Road or the Municipal Railway Starting from near the Vidyasagar Setu (New Hooghly Bridge on the East Bank (Calcutta Side)

Mai-Baap: A Memorial for Indentured Labour at Suriname Ghat

It wasn’t until almost a century had passed since the last ship left the Suriname Ghat that its historical significance was acknowledged. As a monument to the Indian men and women who left their homes in quest of a better future abroad, even if it meant leaving behind some of their loved ones, the “Mai-Baap” (Mother and Father) statue, portraying a man and a woman strolling with a Potli (bag), was erected on October 7, 2015. At the base of the aluminium statue are plaques honouring the struggles and hardships of these people in Hindi, English, Dutch, and Bhojpuri. This statue is a replica of the “Baba-Mai” statue, which was erected in 1994 in Paramaribo, Suriname’s Kleine Water Street to mark the entry of Indian indentured labourers.

The Suriname Ghat is a historical location that was significant, albeit less well-known, in Indian history is hidden inside the South Generating Station of the CESC (Calcutta Electric Supply Corporation) at Garden Reach, Kolkata. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, travellers from North and Eastern India embarked at the Suriname Ghat on their way to Suriname in South America. It is located along the banks of the Hooghly river near the Shyama Prasad Mukherjee Docks in Kidderpore, Kolkata.

It is locally also referred to as the Baloo Ghat as this ghat is said to have been built (as marked in a map of 1825) on the Eastern Side of Coolie Bazar above Tolly’s Nullah for unloading of sand for the construction of the new Fort William. Coolie Bazar which still exists behind Hastings was the area where the coolies for building the fort as well as for the port operations used to live.

Indentured Indian Labourers Memorial and Clock Tower

“From here they set forth .. This memorial commemorates the thousands of indentured Indian laborers who sailed from Kolkata Port between 1834 and 1920 to lands far away seeking better livelihoods for themselves and their families. This is a celebration of their pioneering spirit, endurance, determination and resilience. They made significant contributions to their adopted countries, yet cherished and passed on the spirit of Indianness – culture, values, traditions – to their descendants. We salute them.
The clock tower of Kolkata Port Trust (KoPT), which is brick red in hue, is located next to the Kolkata Memorial. To assist ships in transit in keeping their time, the tower was constructed in 1899. W. Banks Gwyther created the tower, which Martin and Company built. Cooke and Kelvey built up the four-dial clock.
The clock tower witnessed the latter stages of the great Indian migration, but it had nothing to do specifically with the journeys of the indentured Indian labour. Sadly, in recent years, people have started calling the clock tower incorrectly Demerara Clock Tower after a river and region in Guyana where the Indian labourers first arrived.

Ghats were often used for trade of goods. The doi/dudh ghat was used for the trade of milk products. Currently it is used mainly for religious purposes.

Built “by his fellow citizens” in 1842-43 in Memory of James Prinsep, Assay Master of the Calcutta Mint (1820-30) and Secretary of the Asiatic Society in 1832, it has a stately colonnade adorned by Doric Pillars Two Lions which sat majestically either side of the Ghat are now inside Fort William. The Ghat had to be moved to the west for building the Strand Bank between Strand Road and the present site of the Memorial. It was restored by INTACH in 1993 and re-restored by the PWD in 2000.

Outram Ghat, built in 1911 is dedicated to Sir James Outram. Sir James was a foot soldier in the British East India Company but rose through the ranks to become a general. During the colonial era, the ghat saw many ships sailing to East Bengal and Burma and acted as an important port. It is located to the south of Babughat and currently houses the office of the Kolkata River Traffic Police.

This is one of the busiest Ghats on the river. It was built in 1830 by a rich merchant, Baboo Raj Chandra Das, husband of Rani Rashmoni, who was his third wife. Rashmoni (a devotee of the sage, Ramakrisha) pursued a large number of philanthropic activities including construction of Dakhsineshwar Kali temple. Over the landing berth is a fine Doric style pavilion with pillars. Baboo ghat is a favorite bathing ghat and a place to hend for massage. It is used for religious rites as well.

South of Armenian Ghat, it was built by the wealthy merchant and Philanthropist Motilal Seal (1792-1854), He, incidentally, sued the East India Company and the Port in protest against the demolition of a number of Hindu Ghats which were necessitated for the construction of Strand Road and the Strand Bank Road. His ghat was then moved further south for which his son, Heeralal Seal won the suit and was given compensation by the Port Commissioners. The ghat is now maintained by the Calcutta Port Trust.

Also known as Loha/Phool ghat/Ganpati Rai Kalyan Ghat/ Rai Bahadur Bisweswarlal Hargobind Shradh Ghat. Many of the old ghats found on old Calcutta maps are still present but go by different names on different maps due to the Hooghly’s retreat and change in course. One such instance is Chotelal Ghat.

There are two stories regarding Chotelal’s identity. According to one account, Chhotey Lal Durga Prasad was a somewhat successful lawyer at the Calcutta High Court. Over time, his renown and money grew. Despite having everything materially desirable, he regretted that he didn’t have a son to pass on his wealth and the law practise.
According to legend, Chhotey Lal Durga Prasad frequently visited a little temple dedicated to Lord Shiva located where the Ghat is now. He once encountered a faqir, or Muslim ascetic, here. Prasad approached the ascetic and shared his unfulfilled dream with him out of desperation.

When the faqir learned about Chhotey Lal Durga Prasad’s desire, he instructed him to construct a ghat there and offer prayers to Lord Shiva. What happened next cannot be explained by any scientific theories, but it is true: Chhotey Lal’s wife gave birth to a son a few months after their unexpected encounter.

Chhotey Lal erected the Ghat and renovated the temple as part of his vow.
According to the alternate account, Radhabazar-based trader Baboo Chotelal Durga Prasad was. Additionally, he conducted business in the former princely state of Furruckabad, which is now part of Uttar Pradesh. Following his passing in 1872, his executors and heirs informed the then-Calcutta Port Commissioners of their wish to spend one lakh rupees to build a bathing ghat in honour of the departed Baboo.

Richard Bayne created the ghat’s structure, which was finished in 1875. The Bayne-designed building had a single story and was decorated with an elaborate round room in the European classical style. Even though the dome is fully covered with the new floor that has been added, this ghat is still standing, and if you compare it to old photographs, you can clearly see the elaborate pavilion with the liveried windows.

Ram Chandra Goenka, a businessman from Rajasthan, constructed the Zenana Bathing Ghat by creating a boundary wall around the ghat to put an end to this atrocity against women. Given that he was from a distant state and nevertheless assisted Bengali women in taking a dip in the river without being observed, Goenka’s contribution is commendable. Both the Zenana Ghat and the plaque recognising Ram Chandra Goenka are still present. A trip to Zenana Ghat restores our confidence in humanity because it tells the story of a man who, more than 150 years ago, cared about and took action to defend the honour and modesty of women.

Shobharam Basak, a well-known trader and businessman of the period, constructed this ghat and gave it his family god’s name. The bard’s family is thought to have performed the Rabindrasangeet song “Banglar maati Banglar jol” here for the first time. It is also believed that the Tagores bathed at this ghat on the auspicious day of Raksha Bandhan, put on fresh garments, and tied rakhis on the wrists of those present. The ghat is next to Mullick Ghat, a well-known flower market.
Located in the North end of Howrah Bridge approach from Calcutta. This was the staging point for the erstwhile River Steam Navigation Co. (RSN) and the Indian General & Northeastern Railways (GNRO operated between northeast India (upto Dibrugarh) by the then Inchcape Group.

The Prasanna Kumar Tagore Ghat or the Pathuria Ghat dates back centuries. This ghat is seen on official maps of the region from the late 18th century. There are several explanations for its name, one of which is that it derives from the Greek word pathor, which means stone. The ghat was constructed using stones that were brought in as ballasts in empty ships that would come to India for trading purposes.  

This Ghat Complex consists of the Burning Ghat maintained by Kolkata Municipal Corporation and the Bathing Ghat maintained by the Kolkata Port Trust. It also includes the Bhootnath Ghat and the Immersion Ghat. Raja Raj Chandra Das, husband of Rani Rashmoni built a hall to be used by the people coming from distant places for cremation of people who desired to die on the Banks of the Holy Ganga. The dying persons were taken out on the river bank and kept for hours together before kiss of death”. Many eminent personalities such as Rabindranath Tagore and Ishwarchandra Vidyasagar were cremated here and plaques commemorating the same stands here for visitors to pay tribute to.

This is named after a prosperous Dhaka merchant, Manick Bose. It is also known as Dutta Babu’s Ghat. Ganga Arati would happen here a few years back but has discontinued now. It is being maintained by the Kolkata Port Trust.

Being presently maintained by Kolkata Port Trust, the Ghat probably derives its name from “Ahir” or the community of milk men and Ahiritola could be “Goala Para”. The original ghat may have been primarily used for bathing of cattle.

These ghats are located on the western fringe of Sova Bazar (Ketua Street) and are passibly a part of the series of ghats all having unique association with Lord Jagannath, his rath the chariot) and his priest (Mahantat, Rathtala Ghat, also known as Hurro Chand Mullick Bathing Ghat is maintained by Kolkata Port Trust at present.

As the name suggests this ghat is connected with the Kumhors (potters & clay model makers) of the vicinity. The area is famous for clay images and figures of Hindu gods and goddesses such as Durga, Saraswati and others made by the deft hands of the craftsmen who hail from Nadia, Burdwan and Hooghly. All requirements of silt, clay etc are provided by this ghat which is maintained by the Kolkata Port Trust.