Ghatscape of the River Bhagirathi-Hooghly

The focal point of this narrative is the unique cultural landscape created by the 40-odd ghats/ ghat-pavilions along the sacred Ganga river, locally known as R. Bhagirathi-Hooghly, flowing adjacent to the western edge of Kolkata. This lesser-known “ghat-scape” is highlighted, emphasising its cultural and ecological qualities, as well as the contemporary urban challenges it faces. 

Ghats, which are a flight of steps descending to the water from the adjoining land, provide direct physical access to the river and, together with associated temples and pavilions, represent a unique cultural landscape lining a sacred river, generated by humankind over centuries in an attempt to reach the river. The Ghatscape encompasses various layers of geography, geomorphology, hydrology, ecology, and sacral, religious, social, and cultural veins, creating a landform with a typical Indian identity. The ghats along the Bhagirathi-Hooghly river have also given Kolkata a distinguished identity, supporting diverse activities such as social, recreational, transport, and industrial.

The Bhagirathi-Hooghly riverfront in Kolkata is dotted with ghats as well as ghat-associated pavilions, both constituting the unique ghatscape of Kolkata.

The ghat-pavilions were commissioned mainly by prominent personalities of the time, different ethnic groups, businesses, or trade organizations, and were named after their patrons. 

The ghatscape holds a collection of cultural narratives that bear witness to numerous pivotal moments in the city’s history. The growth and decline of the ghats are intertwined with the evolution of the riverfront and the intricate historical development of the city. These ghat functions provide a glimpse into the socio-cultural and economic scenarios of the then ‘Calcutta’ and its affluent and elite persons, also known as ‘Babu.s’.

Mayer Ghat  is the northernmost ghat after the Bagbazar canal and this was frequented by Sri Sri Ma i.e., Holy Mother SaradaMoni Devi for her daily bath during her stay at Mother’s House, Bagbazar between 1909 to 1920 till her mahasamadhi. The route taken by her is indicated in the map. Previously known as Durga Charan Mukherjee Ghat, it was renamed as ‘Mayer ghat’ in her honour.

‘Mayer Ghat’ is also a success story in rejuvenating the ghat area, restoring the historic pavilion, and in the process, the environment. Steered by the local community, it was led by the Ramakrishna Math- Bagbazar in 2004. The scheme prepared by the Architecture Dept., JU was implemented with active participation of all public stakeholders – KMC, Eastern Railways, KoPT, Kolkata Police, CESC, and public representatives- local MP & MLA.

Designed by the British architect Richard Roskell Bayne, Chhotelal ki ghat (1875) remains the most photographed ghat-pavilion of that era. An iconic landmark in its own right and the centre of public attention of its time, it was but natural for putting up plaques in public interest / viewing on its body. One such tragedy remains recorded on the walls of this ghat-pavilion as a historic marker.

As there was no rail linkage to Puri Jagannath Dham during the late 19th century and walking was too strenuous, many pilgrims, especially women, preferred to take the river route to reach Puri. McLine and Co. ran a steamship named ‘Sir John Lawrence’ from Calcutta to Chandbali (River Baitarani, Bhadrak, Orissa) for the Puri pilgrims. 
Tragedy struck on 25th May 1887- the steamship drowned in the sea with all its passengers due to a cyclonic storm. A commemorative plaque is installed on the pavilion’s south wall to mark this tragic event. It reads as follows:
“The stone is dedicated by a few English women to the memory of those pilgrims, mostly women, who perished with Sir John Lawrence in the cyclone of 25th May 1887”.

Chand Paul Ghat

Named after one Chandra Nath Pal, keeper of a small shop at the ghat, Chandpal Ghat was in existence since 1774 on the southern boundary of the then Dihi Calcutta (Ray, 1902). 
With the new Fort William coming up in 1781 and the area in between cleared off the jungles, the ghat became the landing place for all the who’s who of the time- British Governor Generals, Commanders-in-Chief, Judges and Bishops, including Sir William Jones in 1783 and James Prinsep in 1819. 
It was also from this ghat that Sri Aurobindo sailed to Pondicherry by the French ship SS Dupleix (Sri Aurobindo Institute).

Babughat

Babughat with its pavilion was constructed in memory of Babu Raj Chandra Das by his wife, the honourable Rani Rasmoni in 1830. This became a widely used embarkation / disembarkation point for the river traffic. 
On 30th December 1841, Mother M. Delphine Hart and 11  Loreto nuns from Ireland landed at Babughat. Bishop Carew welcomed them at Calcutta. Loreto House, the first Loreto school in India, was established at 5, Middleton Row  on 10th January 1842 by the Sisters. Loreto Convent School, Entally was started in 1843.

The ghat-pavilions are a testament to the diverse architectural styles that reflect Kolkata’s cultural richness. 
Ghat construction activities spread over a span of nearly 200 years display different styles and scales in the pavilions.

Babughat (1830) with pediment supported by Doric columns, and Prinsep Ghat Memorial (1843) with Ionic columns, follow distinct European architectural style. Kumartuli ghat, Nimtala ghat, Champatala ghat, and Adya Shraddha ghat etc., are mostly square-shaped masonry structures with elements of Indian architecture, while some ghat-pavilions like Jagannath ghat and P.K. Tagore ghat are Cast-Iron structures.
The most iconic Chhotelal ki Ghat (1875) presents impressive  elevations with stately Corinthian columns, arches, and a raised central drum that got obscured due to an incoherent vertical expansion in the late 1980s. 
Ram Chandra Goenka Zenana bathing ghat (1890) is another grand structure, albeit in mixed-style, with more graceful arches, a central dome and chhatri-like turrets at the four roof-corners. 
Mutty Lall Seal ghat pavilion (1840) seems quite ahead of its time, with tall arched openings and flat-roof entablature held by imposing Corinthian columns.

We imagine a riverfront that is accessible to all and which, punctuated by these unique ghat-pavilions will narrate the story of this more than three-hundred-year-old city, its layered history, its triumphs and tragedies, its people and palaces, its classes and masses, and its immensely significant role in the Independence movement of our country. 

Mayer ghat in the city’s north and Prinsep ghat in the south give us hope that other ghat-pavilions can be restored, their old glory revived, and the ghat adjacent area can become a hub of recreational and cultural activities. 

1. Bardhan, S. and Paul, S. (2023), The cultural landscape of the Bhagirathi-Hooghly riverfront in Kolkata, India: studies on its built and natural heritage, Journal of Cultural Heritage Management and Sustainable Development, Vol. 13 No. 2, pp. 219-237. https://doi.org/10.1108/JCHMSD-08-2020-0119.
2. Bardhan, S. and Paul, S. (2019), Envisioning an eco-cultural urban landscape Studies on the Ghats of the River Bhagirathi-Hooghly in Kolkata, India, IFLA CL WG’s International Symposium on Historic Cultural Landscapes: Succession, Sustenance and Sustainability, Seoul, 18-20 Nov. 2019.
3. Bardhan, S. (2006). Riverfront rejuvenation: ‘Mayer Ghat’ in North Calcutta. Journal of Indian Institute of Architects, 71(8). pp. 43.
4. Jadavpur University. 2003-04. Study & Documentation of Ghat Structures Along Calcutta Riverfront – A Study conducted by students of Department. of Architecture, Jadavpur University, Kolkata. Unpublished.
5. Kundu, A.K. and Nag, P. (1996), Atlas of the City of Calcutta and its environs, National Atlas & Thematic Mapping Organisation (NATMO). 
6. Mitra, R. and Mitra, R. ‘Saswata Kolkata’ Part I- ‘Gangar Ghat’ 
7. Motilal, A. Howrah – Kolkatar Gangar Ghat’.
8. Mukhopadhyay, A. (2018), “MullickGhat and the Jagannath steamer ghat”, available at: https://puronokolkata.com/2018/08/22/mullick-ghat-and-the-jagannath-steamer-ghat/ (accessed 29 December 2020).
9. Mukhopadhyay, H (1915), Kalikata Shekaler O Ekaler. Kalikata Sekaler O Ekaler – Harisadhan Mukhopadhyay / কলিকাতা সেকালের ও একালের – হরিসাধন মুখোপাধ্যায় : Bangla Rare Books : Free Download, Borrow, and Streaming : Internet Archive
10. Old Indian photos (accessed April 2023),article
11. Ray, A.K. (1902), Census of India, 1901, Vol. VII- Calcutta, Town and suburbs, Part-I, A short history of Calcutta, Bengal Secretariat Press, Calcutta.
12. Sri Aurobindo Institute (accessed May 2023), Departure to Pondicherry – Sri Aurobindo (1906-1910)